La Spiga’s Sabrina Tinsley on Making Pasta and Holding Space

Five years would be a great run for a restaurant. This year, La Spiga will mark 26 years serving the sturdy cuisine of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, first at its original location near Broadway and Union then, since 2006, on 12th Avenue. Chef-owner Sabrina Tinsley relocated to Seattle from Italy with her husband, Pietro Borghesi, in 1998. The plan: join her sister Sachia in opening an osteria that specializes in piadina. These flatbread sandwiches were the heart of the business the couple had owned back in the central Italian town of Macerata. But in Seattle, pasta followed soon after.

Today, diners often associate La Spiga’s striking dining room with plates of

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