This Glisan Convenience Store Serves Bowls of Birria de Chivo With Handmade Tortillas

At J & T Market on Glisan, Adrian Flores fills AM PM cups with thick consomme, red oil shimmering at the top. He pulls tender strands of meat from the depths of his stockpot, letting them drip before he tucks it into a fresh-made tortilla. Flores’s restaurant, Sahuayo Taqueria, is little more than a counter adjacent to the cash register at a convenience store, but throughout the day, nurses and locals step up to the small counter to order breakfast burritos, tacos with little plastic bags of escabeche, and takeout containers filled with mounds of chilaquiles.

Sahuayo has become an under-the-radar taqueria with a cult following, known for

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