Andrea and Cody Westerfield created a restaurant that meets the moment in De La Soil.
As I romped and chomped excitedly through De La Soil’s summer menu and specials, dragging charred Jimmy Nardello peppers through whipped feta with miso-lime vinaigrette, I worried about the impending fall, when tomatoes stop blushing and the watermelons—like those served as a granita with Tajín ice cream—wither on the vine.
The heirloom tomato tartine tasted of pure joy and sunshine, lathered in roasted garlic mayo and sprinkled with a purple confetti of chive blossoms; I struggled to conceive of its gloomy season sibling. What could possibly live up to this? Upon returning
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