Daisley Gordon’s Pasta in Fried Tomato Sauce

One night, while Daisley Gordon’s Cafe Campagne was running a pasta special, one of his cooks suggested the chef toss it with the house calamars a la Provencale. The combo was a bit of a lark, but tasted pleasant and robust, the chef recalls, with lots of umami. “I would eat it myself at the end of the shift a lot.”

If you don’t happen to run a classic Pike Place Market bistro, your kitchen may not be stocked with lovingly prepared squid dishes. But its appeal when paired with the pasta wasn’t really the squid, says Gordon. It was the capers. Especially with a

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