The racks on which Ekone smokes its scallops tattoo them with crisscross patterns of rich bronze, not unlike the shade of a perfectly toasted marshmallow. Only they need no chocolate or graham crackers; they need nothing at all. Notoriously temperamental, scallops seem to actively resist any efforts to thread the needle between translucently raw and rubbery overcooking. Yet, Ekone’s packaged smoked scallops come out impressively and consistently tender. Each plump, buttery scallop sings with the hypercondensed flavor of hours soaking in brine and shvitzing in the smokehouse.
They are beauty, they are grace, they are one of the best seafood products in a state full of such treasures. But
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