The food isn’t the focus of this luau—but it’s still a highlight.
Thirty minutes south of Hilo on the island of Hawai‘i, I turn off the highway onto a small road, then again, onto an even smaller road, before slowing to a stop where the map indicates. Spotting a white tent over a patch of gravel just across the street, I figure I must be in the right place. Despite the lack of hula dancers, slack key guitar music, or a stage, I am here for a luau.
Commercial luaus began not long after Westerners started regularly visiting the islands, and have been an essential part of
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