At Kilig, Melissa Miranda Mixes Comfort with Creativity

Classics (Musang’s pancit and Kilig’s signature bulalo) meet creative (a roguish take on a wedge salad).

Kilig doesn’t open for another three minutes, but three grandma-age ladies are already in formation by the still-locked doors. Their body language makes it clear, politely, that they were here first.  “The lolas are here,” my friend whispers, his voice a little awestruck. At a Filipino restaurant, the presence of lolas is a very good sign—like seeing a bunch of off-duty chefs at a diner.

The first weeks of 2024 rode in rough for chef Melissa Miranda. January’s cold snap burst a pipe at her flagship restaurant, Musang. Instead of serving

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