At Hidden Kitchens, the Tran Family Is Reclaiming Fusion Cooking

Forty years ago, Thang Tran’s family dinners looked remarkably different from how they look now. His family had just arrived in the United States from Vietnam, and holiday dinners consisted of Vietnamese staples like bo luc lac and thit kho. Over time, his family started to introduce prototypical American standards: turkey, prime rib. These days, the meal is almost unrecognizable from those first holiday dinners in the states. “Now we have sushi and Thai … set in the middle of the potluck,” Tran says. “We started to wonder, ‘What does it mean to have traditional food for the family?’”

Tran is the co-owner of Xinh Xinh Vietnamese Bistro, a

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