Washington's Most Fertile Region Finally Has a Restaurant Scene to Match

Most of Crafted’s dinner customers are deep in their entrees when Kevin Follansbee walks through the front door with an eye-popping quantity of morel mushrooms. The kitchen, already busy, shifts into a new gear. Cooks weigh the elusive delicacy on a big scale while the bearded forager tries to stay out of the way at the busy pass. Co-owner Mollie Koommoo runs for the checkbook.

Follansbee gathered more than 22 pounds, all told, thanks to “a good tip and a strong hunch.” That should last through the weekend, predicts chef Dan Koommoo. It’s Thursday.

Sure, it’s a tad unusual for a

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