John Howie’s scallop dish can cost $56 or $24—the latter only if you can get in.
On the ground floor of a suburban office building, I ate a perfectly cooked scallop; the tantalizing caramel coat giving way to just-opaque insides, tender, creamy, and tasting of the sea. Scallops are notoriously difficult to prepare, prone to overcooking before they develop that crisp exterior. To find one this good, here of all places, took me by surprise.
The flash-seared shellfish came floating on velvety beurre blanc, under a tangle of thinly sliced frizzled onions, and with segments of jewel-toned citrus brightening the plate. A similar dish at chef John
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