Gao Lhao brings the excitement—and food—of Bangkok’s Chinatown to Green Lake.
Younger siblings are boisterous, gregarious, rebellious. They get loud and question authority while their older siblings stick to rules and color within the lines. When our server at Larb left a small burner, already lit, uncovered on our table while they returned to the kitchen for our hot pot, one of my daughters poked the blue flame with a spoon. Her big sister quickly chastised her. Larb is itself a little sibling—from the same folks as the U District’s Thaprachan—and suitably charismatic from an early age, ready to prod everyone around it into rethinking the tacit
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