One of the Town's Best Steak Houses Isn't a Steak House at All

On Tuesday and Wednesday nights, Seattle’s cult favorite butcher shop lays a few place settings and assumes its twice-weekly alter ego: wine bar. But just a few weeks in, Beast and Cleaver co-owner Kevin Smith realized, “our wine bar quickly turned into a steak bar.”

It may not have been the intention, but Smith and wine director Nick Davis have built one of the town’s most enjoyable steak house experiences inside a place that isn’t even technically a restaurant.

On a recent night, the compact menu listed a few cuts you’d expect to find at a place that exalts beef—a portion of

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