On Monday night, the grand midcentury modern building perched over the Ship Canal lit up on its day off as the restaurant bid farewell to third-generation owner Brian Canlis. On Wednesday morning, the 75-year-old restaurant lit up the food world with news of its new executive chef, a choice most surprising in its predictability.
Today Mark Canlis—now alone at the helm—announced that Canlis promoted executive sous chef James Huffman into the top spot in the kitchen.
The choice demonstrates a clear desire to keep a steady ship in turbulent times. Brian stepped away after 18 years of the brothers’ shared ownership, the entire industry faces steeply rising costs, and
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