This New Ramen Shop, Tucked Under the Hawthorne Bridge, Makes All Its Noodles In-House

The way hip hop heads talk about rap, or Red Sox fans talk about baseball — that’s how Ryan Callahan talks about ramen. As a teenager, he’d drive to Portland from Salem to eat his way through the city’s ramen shops. He spent his young adulthood in the depths of online ramen-head subreddits and internet communities, talking about the specifics of noodle extruders and tare ratios. He’s traveled to other cities to try bowls at buzzy pop-ups and lauded ramen shops. He talks about people like Keizo Shimamoto and Ramen Lord with reverence, lamenting the closure of the cult-favorite Ramen Shack in Orange County. It was that passion that

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