At Le Clown, the French pop-up from St. Jack alumnus John Denison, a past steak preparation came as a two-plate dish: A crock of silken whipped potatoes surrounded a marrow bone filled with demi-glace, while the other plate supported a sliced culotte drenched in a rich peppercorn sauce, topped with a scattering of microgreens.
There was a time when steak au poivre was inescapable. Peppercorn-encrusted steaks, drenched in a sauce bolstered with brandy or sherry, became a staple within both the American celebration restaurant and the French bistro. Over time, however, its presence on contemporary menus in Portland dwindled, reduced to a potential sauce option at various steakhouses.
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