While working on an update to Eater Portland’s Italian restaurant map, a nagging feeling kept scratching the back of my neck. I’m forgetting something, I thought, referring back to my notes and cross-checking my longer list. It wasn’t until I finished my proofread that it hit me: I was writing about the city’s best pastas, but I hadn’t written about my favorite spots for pasta in Portland. That’s because none of them are pasta shops — not really, anyway.
When Hollywood District restaurant Xiao Ye opened in the fall of 2023, it branded itself as “first generation American food,” pulling inspiration from meals at chain steakhouses, Korean barbecue
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