Ethan and Geri Leung are moving to Portland for the same reason countless New York, San Francisco, and Seattle chefs do: to slow down. Ethan Leung, currently cooking at Seattle’s buzzy hotel restaurant Ben Paris, lives the life of a chef in a demanding market: 12, 13, 14-hour days, all with the high pressure of working in a traditional restaurant kitchen. On the side, he and Geri Leung have been running a Filipino pop-up, Baon Kainan, out of Ben Paris, making dishes like smoked salmon sinigang and ube panna cotta.
But after coming down to visit Matta power couple Richard and Sophia Le, the Leungs realized they wanted
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