Years ago, it may have seen particularly cool or underground to get takeout via text. Now, it’s become the norm for some of the city’s best new “restaurants.” From the depths of the Gotham Building on North Interstate, Nick Sherbo, David Sai, or Alex Saw emerge with masks and takeout containers of thokes, or Burmese salads pulling their power from fermented tea leaves, house-made chickpea tofu, the hit of dehydrated brine provided by dried shrimp. Customers pay via Venmo, and they return to the kitchen within, tending to their pots of simmering soups and curries.
Frequent farmers market customers will recognize Sherbo, Saw, and Sai as the faces of
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