Pandemic-Era Pop-Up Raiz Explores What Produce Can Do

Jorge Rico, a Portland-area chef, remembers meeting a man at the Montavilla farmers market. The man asked Rico, an alumni of restaurants like Taylor Railworks and Berlu, about where his family came from in Mexico, and sent him home with a handful of papalau from Cuautla. “He kept saying how important it was, your raiz — your roots,” he says. “It stuck with me.”

Rico and his partner, Dominique Rodriguez, are captivated by roots in their most literal form: plants. The couple moved to Portland years ago, after visiting Southern Oregon. They remember walking around seeing bushes of rosemary in people’s front lawns, eating a Mountain Rose apple for

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