For the last four years, Matta’s Richard Le has served steak frites with fish sauce and breakfast sandwiches on pandan buns out of a Northeast Portland food cart. The chef has described his food as Việt Kiều — a term that refers to the Vietnamese diaspora. His interpretation of the Việt Kiều experience is a collection of dishes born from memories of what he ate growing up in California, and what was passed down from his mother, aunt, and grandmother. But after years of exploring his culinary past, Le has started to feel the urge to get more seasonal with his cooking, or more intricate. He found that complex
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