In the winter of 2010, chef Aaron Barnett and sommelier Joel Gunderson opened a French bistro on Southeast Clinton called St. Jack. The restaurant served house-made pate and steak frites, magnums of Champagne circulating the restaurant now home to Jacqueline. St. Jack is now something of a grand dame of Portland dining, an Eater 38 stalwart celebrated for its glamorous plates of seared foie gras or caviar with brioche.
More than a decade later, Gunderson — who went on to become a wine buyer for more Chefstable properties, as well as a sommelier and partner at Coopers Hall — looks back on those days with gratitude. “We joke
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