For Portlanders, one of the joys of visiting SE Hawthorne wine bar OK Omens comes before any wine actually hits the table: The restaurant’s wine list, written by wine director and partner Brent Braun, reads like a conversation with a friend. Braun describes a 2019 pét-nat (short for pétillant naturel, it’s a type of sparkling wine where the wine finishes fermenting in the bottle) rosé of gamay as “like you poured a shot of orange vinegar into a strawberry Jamba Juice;” he says a 2016 tannat and cabernet franc blend would pair well with “an old French man smoking a cigarette in the cold.” Talking to Braun, who often
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