As Roe Closes for Good, Its Final Chef Takes Over the Space With Fine Dining Spot Tercet

Just as executive chef John Conlin felt settled in to his role at the downtown Portland seafood restaurant Roe, the COVID-19 pandemic shut the restaurant down. The restaurant, perched on the mezzanine of the Morgan building, had no real outdoor space to turn into a makeshift dining room; its fine dining seafood prix fixe didn’t lend itself to takeout. So, like so many others, Conlin waited to return to the kitchen.

“I was the head chef at Roe for about two years, and I was really feeling like I was starting to hit my creative stride,” he says. “Benjamin Blank, the owner, really believed in my cooking and

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