Casariyo, or afternoon tea, snacks from Soomaaliya.
After Ifrah Ahmed arrived as a child in Seattle from Mogadishu in 1996, she found comfort and community at a Somali restaurant in Tukwila called Marwa. “Having a restaurant like Marwa in our new city signified that we could perhaps belong,” the food writer and recipe developer writes in her cookbook, Soomaaliya, out March 24.
Ahmed lays out the history of a culinary culture built on milk and meat, seasoned with
spices acquired by trade with Asia, and infiltrated by colonial forces. She profiles camel milk entrepreneurs in California, depicts Somalia itself in the seeds of xawaash, the cumin- and
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