During the last week of service at the delicate Eurasian eatery, Cook Weaver, I sat at the bar to enjoy one last tasting menu from chef Zac Reynolds. I tried not to alarm other diners as I gazed over their heads at the restaurant’s beautiful walls, trying to soak them in. As Reynolds passed me a scallop doused in coconut and beet sauce, I lamented that it could be the last time I would be surrounded by the neighborhood’s coolest dining room.
I shouldn’t have worried. A week later, I asked Brett Bankson, part of the space’s incoming Cafe Lolo, whether he and his team would hide or feature the
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