At Chelo, Chef Luna Contreras Pays Homage to Her Grandmother With Mexican Snacks

Growing up in Guadalajara, Luna Contreras idolized her grandmother. Nicknamed Chelo, she would take Contreras to the markets to find food for her fonda, a small market attached to her home. Often she would let Contreras wear dresses on these trips, before she had come out as transgender. “She was the one who accepted (my) identity situation,” Contreras says. Home at her fonda, Chelo would serve what Contreras describes as “straightforward street snacks in Guadalajara,” including bags of peanuts and fried chickpeas.

Since her move to the United States, Contreras has made a name for herself in Portland, with time spent at restaurants Ox, Superbite, and Bistro Agnes.

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