The Pastry Case's Next Chapter

The newest member of Seattle’s cookie pantheon resides in the pastry case at Volunteer Park Cafe and Pantry. Buckwheat flour, cocoa, and chocolate chips make for a confection even darker than Agent Cooper’s coffee. The center’s gooey; the edges crumble like a sable. Each bite somehow manages to taste like hurling yourself into a pool of chocolate, without being all that sweet.

Nobody’s grandma passed down this recipe. Crystal Chiu and Melissa Johnson tested three different brands of buckwheat flour before arriving on a favorite for this cookie (a stealth gluten-free achievement). But the texture, says Chiu, comes mostly from desiccated coconut.

Bakers tend to be perfectionists, but the

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