The newest member of Seattle’s cookie pantheon resides in the pastry case at Volunteer Park Cafe and Pantry. Buckwheat flour, cocoa, and chocolate chips make for a confection even darker than Agent Cooper’s coffee. The center’s gooey; the edges crumble like a sable. Each bite somehow manages to taste like hurling yourself into a pool of chocolate, without being all that sweet.
Nobody’s grandma passed down this recipe. Crystal Chiu and Melissa Johnson tested three different brands of buckwheat flour before arriving on a favorite for this cookie (a stealth gluten-free achievement). But the texture, says Chiu, comes mostly from desiccated coconut.
Bakers tend to be perfectionists, but the
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