With its deceptively residential neighborhoods, hidden destination restaurants, and occasionally aloof locals, Portland can be borderline impossible to navigate without an ally. Still, with a little digging, the city reveals some of the country’s best regional Thai food, risky-but-rewarding culinary mashups, Russian home-cooking and vegan ice cream, all delivered with a “so-what” sort of shrug. The city finds itself in a bowl of mountains, rivers, and farmland, making the locality and seasonality of its restaurants almost cliche. But those restaurants, from Southern pop-ups to Indonesian spots, take what the land and sea have to offer and make it something distinct — a diverse and deeply personal take on
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