Kim Dam has been drinking coffee her entire life. She remembers the ritual of drinking coffee with her family even as a 5-year-old: They would press coffee grounds in a phin, which Dam describes as “if a French press and a Chemex had a baby,” producing a dark, concentrated elixir. They’d give it a chill and then swirl it with condensed milk. The final product, ca phe sua da, is known in America, somewhat reductively, as Vietnamese iced coffee. “Coffee culture in Vietnam is ridiculous,” Dam says. “It’s our way of life, it’s the way we communicate and socialize with everyone.”
Vietnam is the largest producer of robusta beans,
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